Sailing Indonesia: The Spice Islands

Today rise very early and head off in the tenders to a small village. Follow local guides on a walk into the forest to spot the gorgeous Wilson’s Bird of Paradise. Back in the village take time to meet with the community and perhaps visit the school. Get back on the boat by mid-morning and if time permits, travel over to a nearby island to snorkel. In the afternoon, go snorkeling on the beautiful reefs that fill this area. 

Rise early once more to see the remarkable red bird of paradise, and with a little luck and the help of knowledgeable guides, see this rare bird’s elaborate courtship display as dawn breaks over the forest canopy. Once we back on the ship, turn attention to the sea as the ship makes her way through the Dampier Strait, home of some of Raja Ampat’s premier reefs. There’s a chance to see some manta rays while snorkeling, but there are no guarantees. End the day by mooring off another tiny island, where the local children will perform their traditional dances and there’s time to explore the charming village. 

Today is a day of exploration and snorkeling. Spend the day visiting a local village and snorkeling on the many great reefs in the area. Visit a replica of Alfred Russel Wallace’s hut and call in on an island where a local man has set up a coconut crab sanctuary for what is the world’s largest terrestrial arthropod. A late afternoon snorkel along a reef with some spectacular giant clams (the world’s largest marine arthropod and mollusc) leads into dinner at anchor on board. 

Today is another day or snorkeling, Wallace tracking and exploring some of Raja Ampat’s most beautiful limestone karst islands. Wake up in front of the island of Penemu, a dramatic location with a short hilltop climb to take in the amazing views, before continuing on island hopping northwards to an island where at dusk, tens of thousands of fruit bats fly out to feed. Tonight offers a beach barbecue and party on a remote beach. 

This morning wake to see the sun rise over the picturesque chain of islands that makes up the eastern part of the Misool archipelago. Take tenders to a large cave where it is possible to swim, snorkel or simply float while gazing up at the cavernous grotto adorned with stalactites. Then move on to a mysterious jellyfish lake and swim among the many thousands of stingless animals: undoubtedly one of Raja Ampat’s most memorable activities. 

In the afternoon, use the tenders to explore more of this impressive maze of karst islands, both above and below the surface, complete with mysterious skull cairns in sea-cave cemeteries and prehistoric cave paintings estimated to be 3,000-5,000 years old. 

Wake early once again and go ashore. Follow local local guides through the forest to hopefully see the lesser bird of paradise as they dance around in their “lekking” trees. On the way back, stroll around the village, possibly including a school visit, to learn about the way Nature Conservancy is working with the village to empower local women with a fishing practice called “sasi.” 

Today the ship is positioned off the extreme southern tip of Halmahera Island for snorkeling and a visit to a local Bajau sea gypsy village to learn about their way of life. 

Wake up off the western coast of Bacan and go ashore to explore the forested slopes in search of Wallace’s giant bee and the huge and magnificent golden birdwing butterfly. During this trip hope to see some of other endemic animals of these islands, including parrots, cockatoos, lorikeets, hornbills, the elusive cuscus and the endangered black-crested macaque.

Once again set off early into the forest, this time by car, to see Wallace’s standardwing bird of paradise doing their courtship displays in their favorite trees. Also spend the morning looking out for other birds including hornbills, giant cuckoos, parrots and possibly the paradise-crow, another bird of paradise species. Continuing on to the Weda Bay Resort, have lunch before returning to the boat. 

Today wake up off the coast of Halmahera and head to the village of Dodinga: the very place where AR Wallace was living when he discovered the mechanism which drives evolutionary change—natural selection. His Letter to Charles Darwin was the catalyst that prompted Darwin to publish his book Origin of Species in 1859, which explained the theory in greater detail. 

Dodinga is a pretty little riverside village with friendly people, colorful houses and the ruins of an old Portuguese fort—its importance in the history of science cannot be understated. After spending some time with the villagers, sharing some fresh coconuts and enjoying their hospitality, head back to the boat for lunch and then go off for an afternoon of snorkeling and relaxation. Tonight enjoy a final farewell party. 

Today marks the end of the adventure, but first head out for a tour of the city, which has retained its commercial and political importance as the administrative and trading center of North Maluku. Visit a couple of old Portuguese and Dutch forts and pay a visit to the Sultan’s Palace with its rich collection of heirlooms. 

Early in the morning, begin the day’s bird-watching expedition into the forest starting with a search for Wallace’s standardwing bird of paradise. The forest is alive with many beautiful species and it should be a full morning of great bird spotting. Back at the resort, after lunch, choose to snorkel, kayak or relax before venturing back into the forest for more magnificent birding at dusk. 

At dawn, set off for more trekking around Weda rainforest looking for more birds of Halmahera, including another spot to watch the Wallace’s standardwing bird of paradise once more. After lunch, board the ship. Get settled in as the ship starts her crossing to Gebe Island. 

The island of Gebe is home to a plethora of birds from both regions. Go ashore early to a local village and follow the local guides to many parrots, imperial pigeons, fruit doves, kingfishers and other local birds, and with luck, spot the glossy-mantled manucode.  Overnight the ship heads toward Kofiau Island.

Kofiau is home to two wonderful endemics, not least the Kofiau paradise kingfisher—hope to see it, along with many other birds, on a long early morning visit to the forest. In the afternoon, snorkel and explore the island before continuing the birding experience in the early evening. During the night, the ship sets sail to Misool.

Long before dawn, start trekking near the village of Kapatcol, partly by dingy and partly on foot, towards one of the leks of the lesser bird of paradise. On the return, see other special birds of the region and hopefully also the king bird of paradise. In the afternoon, have the chance to go snorkeling on a local reef before heading back into the forest. During the night, continue the journey towards Salawati Island. 

Today, with the help of local guides, hope to see the beautiful yet elusive king bird-of-paradise, which can be seen high in the canopy. Also have the possibility to see the western-crowned pigeon. Later that day, if sea conditions allow, go ashore on the north-east corner of Salawati and look for the northern cassowary, which is known to roam freely in the forest here.

Today brings an encounter with one of the most beautiful birds in the world, the Wilson’s bird of paradise. Rising once again before the dawn, walk through the forest to a hide from which to hopefully see the male’s elaborate forest floor mating display, and maybe even see a female or two come and join in. On the way back to the boat be on the lookout for more birds in the busy forest canopy and floor. In the afternoon, sail on towards Mioskon Island. Arrive around dusk to see thousands of flying foxes head out from their forest home on their nightly forage. 

Go ashore in tenders to follow local guides through the forest to the lekking trees of the red bird of paradise, to witness their outlandish courtship display. On the way back through the forest be on the lookout for many other bird species native to the area. 

After a late full breakfast on the boat, move to another nearby island for snorkeling and relaxing. Come late afternoon, enter the forest once again in search of more endemic bird species. During the night the ship travels the final leg of the trip to Sorong City. 

After breakfast, go ashore on Doom island and tour this small town by three-wheeled motorized transport known locally as “becaks.” The town used to be a Dutch Colonial outpost and was also home to a Japanese base during WWII. Have a final lunch on the boat before saying goodbye to the crew and being transferred to your hotel or the airport for the next part of your journey. 

Starting well before dawn, go ashore in tenders to follow local guides through the forest to the lekking trees of the red bird of paradise, from which to witness their outlandish courtship display. On the way back through the forest be on the lookout for many other bird species native to the area. After a late breakfast on the boat, move to another nearby island for snorkeling and relaxing. Come late afternoon, enter the forest once again in search of more endemic bird species. 

Today brings an encounter with one of the most beautiful birds in the world, the Wilson’s bird of paradise. Rising once again before the dawn, walk through the forest to a hide and hope to see the male’s elaborate forest floor mating display and maybe even a female or two come and join in. On the way back to the boat be on the lookout for more birds in the busy forest canopy and floor. Spend the afternoon on a nearby island exploring, snorkeling and birding, before heading off in the evening towards Salawati Island farther south. 

Today, with the help of local guides, hope to see the beautiful yet elusive king bird-of-paradise, which can be seen high in the canopy. Also have the possibility to see the western-crowned pigeon as well. Later today, if sea conditions allow, go ashore on the north-east corner of Salawati and look for the northern cassowary, which is known to roam freely in the forest here. In the afternoon relax on board as the ship makes the long crossing towards the island of Misool. 

Long before dawn start trekking near the village of Kapatcol, partly by dingy and partly on foot, towards one of the leks of the lesser bird of paradise. On the return, see other special birds of the region and hopefully also the king bird of paradise again. In the afternoon, go snorkeling on a local reef before heading back into the forest for more birding. Early in the evening the ship heads north towards the island of Kofiau. 

Kofiau is home to two wonderful endemics, not least the Kofiau paradise kingfisher—hope to see it on a long early morning visit to the forest along with many other birds. In the afternoon, snorkel and explore the island before birding again in the evening. Overnight the ship heads towards the island of Gebe. 

The island of Gebe is situated halfway between northern Raja Ampat and Halmahera, and is home to a plethora of birds from both regions. Go ashore early to a local village and follow the local guides to many parrots,  imperial pigeons, fruit doves, kingfishers and other local birds, and with luck, see the glossy-mantled manucode. At dusk start the long crossing to Weda on the east coast of Halmahera, ahead of an early trek into the forest. 

Early in the morning, begin the day’s bird-watching expedition in the Weda Forest with the first port of call being a meeting with Wallace’s standardwing bird of paradise. The forest is alive with many beautiful species so expect a full morning of bird spotting. After lunch back on the boat, say farewell to the crew, disembark the vessel and check-in at the Weda Resort. In the late afternoon go venturing back into the forest in search of more spectacular species. 

At dawn, set off for more trekking around Weda rainforest, looking for more birds of Halmahera, including another spot to watch the Wallace’s standardwing bird of paradise once more. Back at the resort, after lunch, choose to snorkel, kayak or relax before venturing back into the forest for more magnificent birding at dusk. 

After breakfast set off by car in the direction of Ternate, keeping eyes open for any birds and wildlife on the way, for the journey through the fascinating landscapes of Halmahera. Once back on Ternate, be transferred to the airport for your departing flight or to your hotel if you have opted to stay on and do some more birding in the forests of this volcanic and historically rich island.