Sailing Indonesia: The Spice Islands

Today wake up off the coast of Halmahera, just across from Ternate, with the mighty peaks of Ternate and Tidore as the dawn’s backdrop. After breakfast, head to the village of Dodinga: the very place where Wallace was living when, in a fit of malarial delirium, he discovered the mechanism which drives evolutionary change — natural selection. Once he had recovered, he promptly wrote a detailed essay explaining his theory, which he posted to Charles Darwin as soon as he returned to his base on Ternate. His essay, which was published together with Darwin’s thoughts on the subject in August 1858, prompted Darwin to publish his book Origin of Species in 1859, which explained the theory in greater detail. Dodinga is a pretty little riverside village with friendly people, colorful houses and the ruins of an old Portuguese fort; its importance in the history of science cannot be understated. After spending some time with the villagers, sharing some fresh coconuts and enjoying their hospitality, head back to the boat for lunch and then go off for an afternoon of snorkeling and relaxation. The boat heads south later in the day to position for the first Bird of Paradise encounter the following morning.

Rise at 3:00am, have coffee and snacks, and transfer to cars at Bastiong Village, Halmahera, for the drive over the dividing range towards Weda Reef & Rainforest Resort. Together with the local community, the owners of the resort manage a foundation for education and conservation of the primary forest and its wildlife. They are proud to be able to protect over 1700 acres of primary rainforest, home of the Wallace’s Standardwing Bird of Paradise, plus many other species of birds and other wildlife. Start the walk into the forest to arrive by 6:00am and sit quietly below the trees used by males of Wallace’s Standardwing for their communal courtship display. The polygamous males gather and perform a spectacular aerial show, each parachuting with its wings and its vivid-green breast shield spread, and their feather standards fluttering above its back. Walk back to the road for breakfast at a shelter before heading out for a morning of bird watching (hornbills, giant cuckoos, parrots and possibly the Paradise-crow, another species of Bird of Paradise). There might be a chance for a snorkel in Weda Bay before having lunch at the resort. After lunch there is an optional fieldtrip by car into the hills behind the resort to search for birds and insects, including one of Wallace’s greatest discoveries, the Golden Birdwing butterfly, which he regarded as being “the finest butterfly in the world.” Those who would prefer a relaxing afternoon can stay at the resort until the others return, or go back to the boat.

Wake up off the western coast of Bacan, another of Indonesia’s historic spice sultanates. Go ashore to explore the forested slopes where Wallace made some of his greatest zoological discoveries, including the Moluccan Cuscus, the Standardwing Bird of Paradise, the world’s largest bee Megachile pluto, and the huge and magnificent Golden Birdwing Butterfly. Wallace described the latter species as the “finest butterfly in the world.” When he caught the first male in 1859 he wrote: “When I took it out of my net, and opened its gorgeous wings, I was nearer fainting with delight and excitement than I have ever been in my life; my heart beat violently, and the blood rushed to my head, leaving a headache for the rest of the day.” Very few Westerners have ever seen this species alive and no groups of tourists have ever been taken to see it before. Of course there is no sighting guarantee, but your guide will be the one person on Bacan who knows exactly where it can be found. Keep a close watch for these and a host of other animals, some of them endemic to these islands, including parrots, cockatoos, lorikeets, hornbills, the elusive cuscus and the endangered black macaque – the only monkey in Maluku. It’s the wrong side of the Wallace Line for monkeys; these ones were introduced hundreds of years ago from North Sulawesi.

In the morning make landfall at the Pisang Islands. These tiny gems isolated in the vast waters of the Ceram Sea offer a chance to relax and enjoy the sparkling white-sand beaches, clear waters and vibrant reefs before heading to the shores of West Misool.

Today hope to see the Lesser Birds of Paradise displaying in the wild, an unforgettable experience for anyone lucky enough to see them. Rise around 4:00am for a quick breakfast before going ashore at Kapatcol, where local guides will be waiting to take you through the forest to hopefully see the birds as they dance around in their “lekking” (courtship display) trees. There are no sighting guarantees, however. Enjoy time to look around the village and possibly visit the school and learn about the way Nature Conservancy is working with the village to empower local women with a fishing practice called “sasi.” Mid-afternoon the ship will set off for the eastern side of Misool, to Tomolol Bay.

This morning, wake to see the sun rise over the picturesque chain of islands that makes up the eastern part of the Misool archipelago. The topography is typical of karst dissolution, featuring a great number of tiny islets whose bases have been eroded over time by the relentless motion of the tides. After an early breakfast, take tenders into the heart of the bay to see this partially submerged cave where it is possible to swim, snorkel or simply float while gazing up at the cavernous grotto adorned with astonishing stalactites. The more adventurous can swim or paddle through the dark waters to the other mouth of the cave. Then move on to a mysterious jellyfish lake and swim among the many thousands of stingless animals: undoubtedly one of Raja Ampat’s most memorable activities. After returning to the ship, take tenders to explore more of this impressive maze of karst islands, both above and below the surface, complete with mysterious skull cairns in sea-cave cemeteries, and prehistoric cave paintings estimated to be anything between 3,000 to 5,000 years old that depict various human figures and huge human palms, fish, plants, tools and vessels.

After days of marine exploration, the jungle-clad island of Batanta offers a change of scenery and a chance to stretch your legs on an adventurous trek into the island’s interior. The ship anchors at the foot of Arefi Village, nestled on the north coast of the island, which offers a visit to the school with a children’s performance. For those who wish, if the tide is right, take a short walk along the riverbed to the first of two jungle waterfalls complete with a refreshing pool for cooling off. The fit and adventurous may choose to continue the uphill climb along the rocks to where a second, larger cascade awaits. After this, the boat will move to Dayang Island for another great snorkeling opportunity.

Wake up in front of the island of Penemu, a dramatic location with a short hilltop climb to take in the amazing views. After some great snorkeling on the island’s reefs, the boat sets course for the tiny Aborek Island, where the local children perform their traditional dances. Walk around the village and gain a sense of the Asai culture, which is still kept very much alive by the villagers living in this isolated place. There’s a possible chance to see some manta rays while snorkeling, but there are no guarantees.

Today presents another opportunity for keen naturalists to rise early and walk into the forest on a pre-dawn quest to spot the remarkable Red Bird of Paradise, one of the species that Wallace was most anxious to collect. With a little luck and the help of knowledgeable guides, see this rare bird’s elaborate courtship display as dawn breaks over the forest canopy. After returning to the ship, turn your attention from the sky to the sea as the ship makes her way through the Dampier strait, home of some of Raja Ampat’s premier reefs. If the currents are favorable, hope to see some of the area’s larger specimens of marine life, which are attracted to the strait’s nutrient-rich waters.

Spend the afternoon in Yenbeser village where Wallace spent some months. If the tides are right, visit a faithful replica of Wallace’s small hut, which was built by the villagers. Also visit a nearby small island where a local man has set up a coconut crab sanctuary. The island is home to a small number of these monsters (Birgus latro, the world’s largest terrestrial arthropod), and you can get up close and personal with these magnificent yet docile beasts. Another late afternoon snorkel along a reef with some spectacular giant clams (the world’s largest bivalve) will lead into dinner at anchor on board, ready for an early morning venture for the Red Bird of Paradise.

Today, rise at 4:30am off Saporkren village. Take a dinghy across to the village where a local guide leads you on a 20-40 minute-walk into the forest on a pre-dawn quest to spot the gorgeous Wilson’s Bird of Paradise. Hope that the efforts of the early start will pay off with a rare and privileged sight of the bird’s elaborate courtship dance as the day breaks over the forest canopy. Back in the village take time to meet with the community and perhaps visit the school. Rejoin the boat by mid-morning and head to Yenbuba at Mansuar island for some snorkeling before lunch. This place is known as the fish bowl because it provides the chance to see different types of fish around the bay. The boat will then move to Mioskon island for more snorkeling and the opportunity to watch a multitude of bats flying overhead just after sunset. Tonight enjoy a farewell party.

Today is the end of the adventure, but there is still one last chance for a swim and a snorkel at a small offshore island before cruising into port. Alternatively, explore Doom Island. Once at anchor say goodbye to your expert guide, crew and sea-based home before taking the tenders ashore to be transferred to the airport for onward travel.

Starting before dawn, trek from the village of Yanbesir on Pulau Gam in the hope of seeing the red birds of paradise performing their spectacular courtship dances. The way back should should reveal many other birds native to the area. Hope to also meet the glossy-mantled manucode. In the afternoon, choose either more birding or find a great place for snorkeling.

Starting once again before dawn, participate in a long trek from the village of Sapokoren on Pulau Waigeo in search of the fabulous Wilson’s bird of paradise. Hopefully, we will see its elaborate mating display just in front of us on the forest floor. En route back to the boat, be accompanied by the calls and sounds of the jungle coming to life and spot a variety of birds along the way. The glossy-mantled manucode and red bird-of-paradise may even be flying around. In the afternoon, move to the nearby island of Mansuar for snorkeling and beach activities, and in the evening cruise to the south side of Pulau Batanta.

On Pulau Batanta, set off in the early morning to go birding from the village of Walibed, where once again there is the opportunity to see various birds-of-paradise, parrots, pigeons and other native birds of Raja Ampat. In the afternoon, consider another walk in this area and in the evening the ship will cross to the nearby island of Salawati.

Early in the morning, go bird watching in the Salawati Forest, the home of the king bird-of-paradise. Hope to also find the magnificent riflebird, magnificent bird-of-paradise, lesser bird-of-paradise or trumpet manucode. There may even be the chance to meet the northern cassowary here too. In the afternoon, take another bird watching walk in this area. Overnight the ship will cruise to Pulau Kofiau.

In the morning, go trekking in search of some of the endemic birds on Pulau Kofiau: spectacled imperial pigeon, Kofiau paradise kingfisher, spotted kestrel, Kofiau monarch and black-faced munia. In the afternoon, enjoy some good snorkeling and explore the area using the dinghies. Overnight the ship will cruise in a northerly direction to the distant Pulau Gebe.

The island of Gebe is situated halfway between Northern Raja Ampat and Halmahera, and birds can therefore be found from both regions. In the morning, trek from the village of Umera to try to spot some of these birds. Hope to sight imperial pigeons, fruit-doves, cuckoos, kingfishers, parrots and maybe even the glossy-mantled manucode. In the afternoon, start the long crossing to Weda on the mainland of Halmahera.

Early in the morning, start the bird watching expedition in the Weda Forest on Halmahera. Hope to observe the beautiful courtship dance of the standardwing (Wallace’s) bird-of-paradise. During the rest of the morning, go spotting for many of the special birds of Halmahera, some of which include the endemic paradise crow. After lunch, disembark the ship and check in at the Weda Resort. In the afternoon enjoy the opportunity to do some spectacular snorkeling in Weda Bay or choose to take another birding walk.

At dawn set out on a trek through the Weda Forest, looking for more of the fabulous birds of Halmahera. Start from another spot to watch the standardwing (Wallace’s) bird-of-paradise again, dancing in the trees above. In the afternoon, enjoy additional bird watching in the area or some fantastic snorkeling in Weda Bay.

After breakfast, checkout of the Weda Resort and depart for the final destination, the island and city of Ternate. The journey by car to the harbor of Sofifi will take 3-4 hours, and is a ride through fascinating landscape. Stops will be made to see some more Halmahera birds along the way. From Sofifi, take the speedboat to Ternate. From there either get an afternoon flight to Jakarta, Bali or elsewhere, or check-in to a hotel with the aim to spend a bit of time exploring this historical clove-scented island and neighboring island of Tidore.

At dawn set out on a trek through the Weda Forest, looking for more of the fabulous birds of Halmahera. Start from another spot to watch the standardwing (Wallace’s) bird-of-paradise again, dancing in the trees above. The rest of the morning try to spot many more birds of Halmahera, including perhaps the endemic paradise crow. In the afternoon, enjoy additional bird watching in the area or some fantastic snorkeling in Weda Bay.

This morning presents the last chance to spot more of the endemic Halmahera birds in the Weda Forest. After lunch, check out of the Weda Resort and join your beautiful boat. The tour leaders will give a safety briefing and, if time allows, you may go for another wonderful snorkel in Weda Bay. In the afternoon the ship will start the long overnight crossing east to Pulau Gebe, (pulau is the Indonesian word for island).

The island of Gebe is situated halfway between Northern Raja Ampat and Halmahera, and birds can therefore be found from both regions. In the morning, trek from the village of Umera to try to spot some of these birds. Hope to sight imperial pigeons, fruit-doves, cuckoos, kingfishers, parrots and maybe even the glossy-mantled manucode. In the afternoon, explore some of the tiny islands nearby via snorkeling and water sports. Overnight, cruise south to Pulau Kofiau.

In the morning, go trekking in search of some of the endemic birds on Pulau Kofiau: spectacled imperial pigeon, Kofiau paradise kingfisher, spotted kestrel, Kofiau monarch and black-faced munia. In the afternoon, enjoy some good snorkeling and explore the area using the dinghies. In the early evening the ship will begin her cruise to the island of Gam.

Starting before dawn, trek from the village of Yanbesir on Pulau Gam in the hope of seeing the red birds of paradise performing their spectacular courtship dances. The way back should reveal many other birds native to the area. Hope to also meet the glossy-mantled manucode. In the afternoon, visit the nearby tiny island of Mioskon, which is home to a number of special birds. There is also the possibility of some good snorkeling off the beach. At dusk, watch thousands of flying foxes crossing over to the mainland of Waigeo Island. In the evening, head to Waigeo.

Starting once again before dawn, participate in a long trek from the village of Sapokoren on Pulau Waigeo in search of the fabulous Wilson’s bird of paradise, hoping to see its elaborate mating display. En route back to the boat be accompanied by the calls and sounds of the jungle coming to life and be sure to spot a variety of birds along the way. Hope to see the glossy-mantled manucode and red bird-of-paradise flying around. In the afternoon move to the nearby island of Mansuar for snorkeling and beach activities, and in the evening the ship will cruise to the south side of Pulau Batanta.

On Pulau Batanta, set off in the early morning to go birding from the village of Walibed, where once again there is the opportunity to see various birds-of-paradise, parrots, pigeons and other native birds of Raja Ampat. In the afternoon, possibly do another walk in this area, and in the evening the ship will cross to the nearby island of Salawati.

Early in the morning, go bird watching in the Salawati Forest, the home of the king bird-of-paradise. Hope to also find the magnificent riflebird, magnificent bird-of-paradise, lesser bird-of-paradise or trumpet manucode. There may even be the chance to meet the northern cassowary here too. In the afternoon, take another bird watching walk in this area. In the evening enjoy a farewell party with the crew of the ship, then cruise overnight to the final destination, the harbor of Sorong.

Make a quick stop for a last swim and refreshments on one of the nearby islands. Them the ship will make her way back to the harbor of Sorong. Here bid farewell to the ship and her crew. The tenders will take you ashore for the transfer to the airport for onward travel.