Sailing Indonesia: The Spice Islands

Arrive on the small island of Ternate, the capital of the North Maluku Province and former hub of the international spice trade. Be met at the airport and transferred to the ship, moored off Ternate City. Take time to get settled into your room, have a quick safety briefing and enjoy an alfresco lunch while meeting the other passengers and the crew. In the afternoon, venture into the city, which has retained its commercial and political importance as the administrative and trading center of North Maluku. Of the four historically powerful spice sultanates, Ternate is the only one where the sultanate has survived uninterrupted. Visit Fort Toluko built by the Portuguese and the Kedaton, the palace of the Sultan, with its rich collection of heirlooms. Also see the impressive Fort Oranje built by the VOC (Dutch East India Company) and the probable site of the house where Wallace was living when he posted his essay on natural selection to Charles Darwin in 1858. This has been described by the President of the Indonesian Academy of Sciences as “the most important science history heritage site in Indonesia.” After the tour, rejoin the boat and start the journey.

Today wake up off the coast of Halmahera, just across from Ternate, with the mighty peaks of Ternate and Tidore as the dawn’s backdrop. After breakfast, head to the village of Dodinga: the very place where Wallace was living when, in a fit of malarial delirium, he discovered the mechanism which drives evolutionary change — natural selection. Once he had recovered, he promptly wrote a detailed essay explaining his theory, which he posted to Charles Darwin as soon as he returned to his base on Ternate. His essay, which was published together with Darwin’s thoughts on the subject in August 1858, prompted Darwin to publish his book Origin of Species in 1859, which explained the theory in greater detail. Dodinga is a pretty little riverside village with friendly people, colorful houses and the ruins of an old Portuguese fort; its importance in the history of science cannot be understated. After spending some time with the villagers, sharing some fresh coconuts and enjoying their hospitality, head back to the boat for lunch and then go off for an afternoon of snorkeling and relaxation. The boat heads south later in the day to position for the first Bird of Paradise encounter the following morning.

Rise at 3:00am, have coffee and snacks, and transfer to cars at Bastiong Village, Halmahera, for the drive over the dividing range towards Weda Reef & Rainforest Resort. Together with the local community, the owners of the resort manage a foundation for education and conservation of the primary forest and its wildlife. They are proud to be able to protect over 1700 acres of primary rainforest, home of the Wallace’s Standardwing Bird of Paradise, plus many other species of birds and other wildlife. Start the walk into the forest to arrive by 6:00am and sit quietly below the trees used by males of Wallace’s Standardwing for their communal courtship display. The polygamous males gather and perform a spectacular aerial show, each parachuting with its wings and its vivid-green breast shield spread, and their feather standards fluttering above its back. Walk back to the road for breakfast at a shelter before heading out for a morning of bird watching (hornbills, giant cuckoos, parrots and possibly the Paradise-crow, another species of Bird of Paradise). There might be a chance for a snorkel in Weda Bay before having lunch at the resort. After lunch there is an optional fieldtrip by car into the hills behind the resort to search for birds and insects, including one of Wallace’s greatest discoveries, the Golden Birdwing butterfly, which he regarded as being “the finest butterfly in the world.” Those who would prefer a relaxing afternoon can stay at the resort until the others return, or go back to the boat.

Wake up off the western coast of Bacan, another of Indonesia’s historic spice sultanates. Go ashore to explore the forested slopes where Wallace made some of his greatest zoological discoveries, including the Moluccan Cuscus, the Standardwing Bird of Paradise, the world’s largest bee Megachile pluto, and the huge and magnificent Golden Birdwing Butterfly. Wallace described the latter species as the “finest butterfly in the world.” When he caught the first male in 1859 he wrote: “When I took it out of my net, and opened its gorgeous wings, I was nearer fainting with delight and excitement than I have ever been in my life; my heart beat violently, and the blood rushed to my head, leaving a headache for the rest of the day.” Very few Westerners have ever seen this species alive and no groups of tourists have ever been taken to see it before. Of course there is no sighting guarantee, but your guide will be the one person on Bacan who knows exactly where it can be found. Keep a close watch for these and a host of other animals, some of them endemic to these islands, including parrots, cockatoos, lorikeets, hornbills, the elusive cuscus and the endangered black macaque – the only monkey in Maluku. It’s the wrong side of the Wallace Line for monkeys; these ones were introduced hundreds of years ago from North Sulawesi.

In the morning make landfall at the Pisang Islands. These tiny gems isolated in the vast waters of the Ceram Sea offer a chance to relax and enjoy the sparkling white-sand beaches, clear waters and vibrant reefs before heading to the shores of West Misool.

Today hope to see the Lesser Birds of Paradise displaying in the wild, an unforgettable experience for anyone lucky enough to see them. Rise around 4:00am for a quick breakfast before going ashore at Kapatcol, where local guides will be waiting to take you through the forest to hopefully see the birds as they dance around in their “lekking” (courtship display) trees. There are no sighting guarantees, however. Enjoy time to look around the village and possibly visit the school and learn about the way Nature Conservancy is working with the village to empower local women with a fishing practice called “sasi.” Mid-afternoon the ship will set off for the eastern side of Misool, to Tomolol Bay.

This morning, wake to see the sun rise over the picturesque chain of islands that makes up the eastern part of the Misool archipelago. The topography is typical of karst dissolution, featuring a great number of tiny islets whose bases have been eroded over time by the relentless motion of the tides. After an early breakfast, take tenders into the heart of the bay to see this partially submerged cave where it is possible to swim, snorkel or simply float while gazing up at the cavernous grotto adorned with astonishing stalactites. The more adventurous can swim or paddle through the dark waters to the other mouth of the cave. Then move on to a mysterious jellyfish lake and swim among the many thousands of stingless animals: undoubtedly one of Raja Ampat’s most memorable activities. After returning to the ship, take tenders to explore more of this impressive maze of karst islands, both above and below the surface, complete with mysterious skull cairns in sea-cave cemeteries, and prehistoric cave paintings estimated to be anything between 3,000 to 5,000 years old that depict various human figures and huge human palms, fish, plants, tools and vessels.

After days of marine exploration, the jungle-clad island of Batanta offers a change of scenery and a chance to stretch your legs on an adventurous trek into the island’s interior. The ship anchors at the foot of Arefi Village, nestled on the north coast of the island, which offers a visit to the school with a children’s performance. For those who wish, if the tide is right, take a short walk along the riverbed to the first of two jungle waterfalls complete with a refreshing pool for cooling off. The fit and adventurous may choose to continue the uphill climb along the rocks to where a second, larger cascade awaits. After this, the boat will move to Dayang Island for another great snorkeling opportunity.

Wake up in front of the island of Penemu, a dramatic location with a short hilltop climb to take in the amazing views. After some great snorkeling on the island’s reefs, the boat sets course for the tiny Aborek Island, where the local children perform their traditional dances. Walk around the village and gain a sense of the Asai culture, which is still kept very much alive by the villagers living in this isolated place. There’s a possible chance to see some manta rays while snorkeling, but there are no guarantees.

Today presents another opportunity for keen naturalists to rise early and walk into the forest on a pre-dawn quest to spot the remarkable Red Bird of Paradise, one of the species that Wallace was most anxious to collect. With a little luck and the help of knowledgeable guides, see this rare bird’s elaborate courtship display as dawn breaks over the forest canopy. After returning to the ship, turn your attention from the sky to the sea as the ship makes her way through the Dampier strait, home of some of Raja Ampat’s premier reefs. If the currents are favorable, hope to see some of the area’s larger specimens of marine life, which are attracted to the strait’s nutrient-rich waters.

Spend the afternoon in Yenbeser village where Wallace spent some months. If the tides are right, visit a faithful replica of Wallace’s small hut, which was built by the villagers. Also visit a nearby small island where a local man has set up a coconut crab sanctuary. The island is home to a small number of these monsters (Birgus latro, the world’s largest terrestrial arthropod), and you can get up close and personal with these magnificent yet docile beasts. Another late afternoon snorkel along a reef with some spectacular giant clams (the world’s largest bivalve) will lead into dinner at anchor on board, ready for an early morning venture for the Red Bird of Paradise.

Today, rise at 4:30am off Saporkren village. Take a dinghy across to the village where a local guide leads you on a 20-40 minute-walk into the forest on a pre-dawn quest to spot the gorgeous Wilson’s Bird of Paradise. Hope that the efforts of the early start will pay off with a rare and privileged sight of the bird’s elaborate courtship dance as the day breaks over the forest canopy. Back in the village take time to meet with the community and perhaps visit the school. Rejoin the boat by mid-morning and head to Yenbuba at Mansuar island for some snorkeling before lunch. This place is known as the fish bowl because it provides the chance to see different types of fish around the bay. The boat will then move to Mioskon island for more snorkeling and the opportunity to watch a multitude of bats flying overhead just after sunset. Tonight enjoy a farewell party.

Today is the end of the adventure, but there is still one last chance for a swim and a snorkel at a small offshore island before cruising into port. Alternatively, explore Doom Island. Once at anchor say goodbye to your expert guide, crew and sea-based home before taking the tenders ashore to be transferred to the airport for onward travel.

Included

Accommodations and meals as indicated in itinerary; beverages including coffee, cocoa, tea, soft drinks and fruit juice; limited laundry service (2 items per day free of charge, service stops 2 days before disembarkation); guided excursions; use of snorkeling gear and sea kayaks/canoes; outdoor sleeping facilities.

Exclusions

International or domestic flights; alcoholic beverages; pre- and post-trip hotel accommodations; gratuities; insruance of any kind; a 2.5% foreign credit card transaction fee if using a credit card to pay for any onboard purchases.

Payment & Cancellation

In order to confirm this trip, a deposit of 25% of the total trip cost is required per person at time of booking. The balance of the trip price is due 90 days before the departure date. Special holiday payment and cancellation terms may apply. Guests who must cancel their trip for any reason must do so in writing. Standard cancellations are subject to the following per-person penalties, based on number of days prior to departure:
Up to 91 days – 25% of total trip cost
90 to 60 days – 50% of total trip cost
59 to 0 days – 100% of total trip cost

Terms & Conditions

This trip is subject to AdventureSmith Explorations’ Terms and Conditions. Please read this information carefully and call us if you have any questions. A Traveler Information Form, which includes a release of liability, must be completed and signed by all travelers. Your Adventure Specialist will send you a unique link to complete this form along with a packing list and extensive pre-departure and travel insurance information upon booking confirmation.

Arrival & Departure

The reverse Sailing Indonesia: The Spice Islands cruise begins in Ternate, Indonesia (TTE), and ends in Sorong, Indonesia (SOQ). We highly recommend arriving one day prior to your trip start date in case of any flight delay, cancellation or lost luggage issues. Plan flights to arrive to Ternate by 7:00am on day 1 of the itinerary. Plan flights to depart Sorong no earlier than 2:00pm on day 12. If you would like assistance with international flights, please visit our Booking Flights resource page.

Activities

Opportunities to explore the land and sea are made available most days of your trip and might include trekking, cultural tours, snorkeling, swimming, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding or nature exploration. All activities are inclusive and always optional; inform your tour leader if you prefer to stay on board. Other activities may include jumping off the boat, beach volleyball with the crew and fishing (a simple spool of fishing line and hooks are available on board).

Room Configuration

Single travelers wishing to book a double-occupancy cabin may do so at a 75% supplement of the per-person listed rate in select cabins upon availability. If you would like to share accommodations with another guest of the same gender, we will be happy to try to accommodate you in select cabins, with age as a consideration. The third passenger in a room will be charged 50% of the cruise fare (discount for all cabins calculated from Stateroom rate), though 3 adults are not recommended in triple cabins due to space restraints.

Families & Children

Families with children age two and older are welcome. Both boats have been built with child safety in mind and the side railings on both ships have been built higher than on normal traditional Buginese schooners. Keep in mind that this is an adventure cruise and parents must watch their children at all times. Children 11 years and younger will be charged 50% of the cruise fare if they share a triple cabin with parents.

Travel Insurance

Protect your travel investment with insurance. Our partners at Travelex Insurance offer a variety of plans and policies to fit every trip and budget. You must purchase your travel insurance policy within 15 or 21 days of booking (depending on plan) for it to cover pre-existing medical conditions; refer to plan details. Learn more about travel insurance or get a free quote.

Itinerary Notes

Use the itinerary as a guide only. Itineraries may be altered due to weather, wildlife, national park regulation or at the captain’s discretion. The ability to be flexible makes this type of small ship cruising unique.