Sailing Indonesia: The Spice Islands

Today wake up off the coast of Halmahera, just across from Ternate, with the mighty peaks of Ternate and Tidore as the dawn’s backdrop. After breakfast, head to the village of Dodinga: the very place where Wallace was living when, in a fit of malarial delirium, he discovered the mechanism which drives evolutionary change—natural selection. Once he had recovered, he promptly wrote a detailed essay explaining his theory, which he posted to Charles Darwin as soon as he returned to his base on Ternate. His essay, which was published together with Darwin’s thoughts on the subject in August 1858, prompted Darwin to publish his book Origin of Species in 1859, which explained the theory in greater detail.  Dodinga is a pretty little riverside village with friendly people, colorful houses and the ruins of an old Portuguese fort, and its importance in the history of science cannot be understated. 

After spending some time with the villagers, sharing some fresh coconuts and enjoying their hospitality, head back to the boat for lunch and then go off for an afternoon of snorkeling and relaxation. Head south later in the day, ready for the first bird of paradise encounter the following morning. 

Rise at 3:00am, have coffee and snacks, and transfer to cars at Bastiong Village, Halmahera, to drive over the dividing range towards Weda Reef & Rainforest Resort. Together with the local community, the owners of the resort manage a foundation for education and conservation of the primary forest and its wildlife. They are proud to be able to protect 700 hectares of primary rainforest, home of the Wallace’s Standardwing Bird of Paradise, plus many other species of birds and other wildlife. 

Start the walk into the forest so that by 6:00am the group is positioned quietly below the trees used by males of Wallace’s Standardwing for their communal courtship display. Walk back to the road for breakfast at a shelter before heading out for a morning of bird watching (hornbills, giant cuckoos, parrots, and possibly the paradise-crow, another less spectacular species of bird of paradise). 

There might be a chance for a snorkel in Weda Bay before having lunch at the resort. After lunch there is an optional field-trip by car into the hills behind the resort to search for birds and insects, including one of Wallace’s greatest discoveries, the golden birdwing butterfly, which he regarded as being “the finest butterfly in the world.” Those who would prefer a relaxing afternoon can stay at the resort until the others return, or go back to the boat. 

Wake up off the western coast of Bacan, another of Indonesia’s historic spice sultanates. Go ashore to explore the forested slopes where Wallace made some of his greatest zoological discoveries, including the moluccan cuscus, the standardwing bird of paradise, the world’s largest bee megachile pluto, and the huge and magnificent golden birdwing butterfly. When Wallace caught the first golden birdwing butterfly male in 1859 he wrote: “When I took it out of my net, and opened its gorgeous wings, I was nearer fainting with delight and excitement than I have ever been in my life; my heart beat violently, and the blood rushed to my head, leaving a headache for the rest of the day.” Very few Westerners have ever seen this species alive and no groups of tourists have ever been taken to see it before. Of course spotting it is not guaranteed but your guide is the one person on Bacan who knows exactly where the butterfly can be found. 

Keep a close watch for these and a host of other animals, some of them endemic to these islands, including parrots, cockatoos, lorikeets, hornbills, the elusive cuscus and the endangered black macaque—the only monkey in Maluku. It’s the wrong side of the Wallace Line for monkeys; these ones were introduced hundreds of years ago from North Sulawesi. 

In the morning make landfall at the Pisang Islands. These tiny gems isolated in the vast waters of the Ceram Sea offer a chance to relax and enjoy the sparkling white-sand beaches, clear waters and vibrant reefs before the ship makes her way to the shores of West Misool.

Today hope to see the lesser birds of paradise displaying in the wild, an unforgettable experience for anyone lucky enough to see them. Rise around 4:00am and have a quick breakfast before going ashore at Kapatcol, where local guides will be waiting to take everyone through the forest to hopefully see the birds as they dance around in their ‘lekking’ (courtship display) trees. Enjoy time for a look around the village, possibly including the school, to learn about their way of life. In the mid-afternoon set off to the eastern side of Misool to Tomolol Bay. 

This morning wake to see the sun rise over the picturesque chain of islands that makes up the eastern part of the Misool archipelago. The topography is typical of karst dissolution featuring a great number of tiny islets whose bases have been eroded over time by the relentless motion of the tides. After an early breakfast, take tenders into the heart of the bay to see this partially submerged cave where it is possible to swim, snorkel or simply float while gazing up at the cavernous grotto adorned with astonishing stalactites. The more adventurous can swim or paddle through the dark waters to the other mouth of the cave. 

Then move on to a mysterious jellyfish lake and swim among the many thousands of stingless animals: undoubtedly one of Raja Ampat’s most memorable activities. After returning to the ship, use the tenders to explore more of this impressive maze of karst islands, both above and below the surface, complete with mysterious skull cairns in sea-cave cemeteries and prehistoric cave paintings estimated to be 3,000-5,000 years old that depict various human figures and huge human palms, fish, plants, tools and vessels.

After days of marine exploration, the jungle-clad island of Batanta offers a change of scenery and a chance to stretch the legs on an adventurous trek into the island’s interior. Anchor at the foot of Arefi Village, nestled on the north coast of the island, to visit the village and the school, and watch the children’s performance. 

For those who wish, if the tide permits, take a short walk along the riverbed to the first of two jungle waterfalls complete with a refreshing pool for cooling off. The fit and adventurous may choose to continue the uphill climb along the rocks to where a second, larger cascade awaits. After this, the boat will move to Dayang Island for another great snorkeling opportunity. 

Wake up in front of the island of Penemu, a dramatic location with a short hilltop climb to take in the amazing views. After some great snorkeling on the island’s reefs, set course for the tiny Arborek Island, where the local children will perform their traditional dances. Also take time to walk around the village and gain a sense of the Asai culture, which is still kept very much alive by the villagers living in this isolated place. There’s a chance to see possible manta rays while snorkeling, but no guarantees. 

Today presents another opportunity for keen naturalists to rise early and walk into the forest on a pre-dawn quest to spot the remarkable red bird of paradise, one of the species that Wallace was most anxious to collect. With a little luck and the help of knowledgeable guides, see this rare bird’s elaborate courtship display as dawn breaks over the forest canopy. After returning to the ship, turn attention to the sea as the ship makes her way through the Dampier strait, home of some of Raja Ampat’s premier reefs. If the currents are in favorable, see some of the area’s larger specimens of marine life, which are attracted to the strait’s nutrient-rich waters. 

Spend the afternoon in Yenbeser village where Wallace spent some months. If the tides permit, visit a faithful replica of Wallace’s small hut, which was built by the villagers. Also visit a nearby small island where a local man has set up a coconut crab sanctuary. The island is home to a small number of these monsters (Birgus latro, the world’s largest terrestrial arthropod), and opportunities exist to get up close and personal with these magnificent yet docile beasts. Another late afternoon snorkel along a reef with some spectacular giant clams (the world’s largest bivalve) will lead into dinner at anchor on board, ready for an early morning venture for the red bird of paradise. 

Today, rise at 4:30am, off Saporkren village. Take a dinghy to the village while it’s still dark and follow a local guide on a short drive into the forest on a pre-dawn quest to spot the gorgeous Wilson’s Bird of Paradise. Hope that the efforts of today’s early start will pay off with a rare and privileged sight of the bird’s elaborate courtship dance as the day breaks over the forest canopy. 

Back in the village there’s time to meet with the community and perhaps visit the school. Get back on the boat by mid-morning and head to Yenbuba at Mansuar island for some snorkeling before lunch. This place is known as the “fish bowl” because it provides the chance to see different types of fish around the bay. The boat will then move to Mioskon island for more snorkeling and the opportunity to watch a multitude of bats flying overhead just after sunset. Tonight, enjoy a farewell party. 

Today is the end of the adventure, but there is still one last chance for a swim and a snorkel at a small offshore island before cruising into port. Alternatively, explore Doom Island. Once at anchor, say goodbye to the crew and ship before taking the tenders ashore and being transferred to the airport for your onward travel. 

Today rise very early and head off in the tenders to a small village. Follow local guides on a walk into the forest to spot the gorgeous Wilson’s Bird of Paradise. Back in the village take time to meet with the community and perhaps visit the school. Get back on the boat by mid-morning and if time permits, travel over to a nearby island to snorkel. In the afternoon, go snorkeling on the beautiful reefs that fill this area. 

Rise early once more to see the remarkable red bird of paradise, and with a little luck and the help of knowledgeable guides, see this rare bird’s elaborate courtship display as dawn breaks over the forest canopy. Once we back on the ship, turn attention to the sea as the ship makes her way through the Dampier Strait, home of some of Raja Ampat’s premier reefs. There’s a chance to see some manta rays while snorkeling, but there are no guarantees. End the day by mooring off another tiny island, where the local children will perform their traditional dances and there’s time to explore the charming village. 

Today is a day of exploration and snorkeling. Spend the day visiting a local village and snorkeling on the many great reefs in the area. Visit a replica of Alfred Russel Wallace’s hut and call in on an island where a local man has set up a coconut crab sanctuary for what is the world’s largest terrestrial arthropod. A late afternoon snorkel along a reef with some spectacular giant clams (the world’s largest marine arthropod and mollusc) leads into dinner at anchor on board. 

Today is another day or snorkeling, Wallace tracking and exploring some of Raja Ampat’s most beautiful limestone karst islands. Wake up in front of the island of Penemu, a dramatic location with a short hilltop climb to take in the amazing views, before continuing on island hopping northwards to an island where at dusk, tens of thousands of fruit bats fly out to feed. Tonight offers a beach barbecue and party on a remote beach. 

This morning wake to see the sun rise over the picturesque chain of islands that makes up the eastern part of the Misool archipelago. Take tenders to a large cave where it is possible to swim, snorkel or simply float while gazing up at the cavernous grotto adorned with stalactites. Then move on to a mysterious jellyfish lake and swim among the many thousands of stingless animals: undoubtedly one of Raja Ampat’s most memorable activities. 

In the afternoon, use the tenders to explore more of this impressive maze of karst islands, both above and below the surface, complete with mysterious skull cairns in sea-cave cemeteries and prehistoric cave paintings estimated to be 3,000-5,000 years old. 

Wake early once again and go ashore. Follow local local guides through the forest to hopefully see the lesser bird of paradise as they dance around in their “lekking” trees. On the way back, stroll around the village, possibly including a school visit, to learn about the way Nature Conservancy is working with the village to empower local women with a fishing practice called “sasi.” 

Today the ship is positioned off the extreme southern tip of Halmahera Island for snorkeling and a visit to a local Bajau sea gypsy village to learn about their way of life. 

Wake up off the western coast of Bacan and go ashore to explore the forested slopes in search of Wallace’s giant bee and the huge and magnificent golden birdwing butterfly. During this trip hope to see some of other endemic animals of these islands, including parrots, cockatoos, lorikeets, hornbills, the elusive cuscus and the endangered black-crested macaque.

Once again set off early into the forest, this time by car, to see Wallace’s standardwing bird of paradise doing their courtship displays in their favorite trees. Also spend the morning looking out for other birds including hornbills, giant cuckoos, parrots and possibly the paradise-crow, another bird of paradise species. Continuing on to the Weda Bay Resort, have lunch before returning to the boat. 

Today wake up off the coast of Halmahera and head to the village of Dodinga: the very place where AR Wallace was living when he discovered the mechanism which drives evolutionary change—natural selection. His Letter to Charles Darwin was the catalyst that prompted Darwin to publish his book Origin of Species in 1859, which explained the theory in greater detail. 

Dodinga is a pretty little riverside village with friendly people, colorful houses and the ruins of an old Portuguese fort—its importance in the history of science cannot be understated. After spending some time with the villagers, sharing some fresh coconuts and enjoying their hospitality, head back to the boat for lunch and then go off for an afternoon of snorkeling and relaxation. Tonight enjoy a final farewell party. 

Today marks the end of the adventure, but first head out for a tour of the city, which has retained its commercial and political importance as the administrative and trading center of North Maluku. Visit a couple of old Portuguese and Dutch forts and pay a visit to the Sultan’s Palace with its rich collection of heirlooms. 

In the morning the ship will be moored offshore of the capital town of Flores, a Christian-dominated island as a result of Portuguese influence. Go ashore and see the five Catholic churches and the Stations of the Cross along the waterfront. During lunch the ship will cross to a neighboring island for a visit to a small local village and the ruins of an old Portuguese fort dating back to the 16th Century. Later in the afternoon, get out the snorkeling gear and explore one of the richly vibrant nearby reefs.

Wake up on Lembata Island in a bite-shaped bay under the gaze of a massive live volcano called Ile Api–Island of Fire. Be welcomed ashore in a local village with singing and dancing, and be witness to the production of their famous local textiles. After lunch on the boat, sail across the bay to snorkel on a vibrant local reef and to swim and paddle on a local beach. This evening, the crew will set up for a beach BBQ and party under the stars before heading off for an overnight cruise to the next destination.

Today, visit a traditional village up in the mountains. Be welcomed by the chief and witness a ceremonial war dance in honor of this visit. See their traditional Moko war drums and intricately designed Ikat fabrics, which have been woven and dyed using age-old techniques, and used in local bridal dowries for centuries. Then weigh anchor and cruise east while enjoying lunch on board, stopping in the late afternoon at a picturesque tropical island to snorkel and swim on a coral reef.

Wake up in a lovely bay on Wetar Island and go ashore to a local fishing village to meet the locals and see their way of life as they dry their catch on the beach. Spend the day swimming and beaching, snorkeling and exploring, and indulge in a bit of local culture by way of sopi, a strong alcoholic drink made from a local palm tree. Later in the afternoon, weigh anchor and continue the journey east.

This morning go ashore on a small island and be welcomed into a remote village where the locals will share their way of life as farmers and fishermen. After lunch continue cruising, stopping off at another tiny island—this one deserted—to swim, kayak, snorkel over the reef and relax on the sand. This evening the crew will set up for a beach BBQ for all to dance and sing into the night before heading off again for an overnight cruise to the next destination.

Today is another day of cruising and exploring in one of the remotest parts of Indonesia. Visit a very simple village where the people’s houses are made using the products of the sago palm, the staple crop in this part of the world. The villagers will demonstrate how they process the heart of the sago palm into the edible product that sustains them. After lunch, cruise around the island and stop off to explore the beaches and reefs by snorkel.

Today will be a day at sea with a route that will pass four spectacular volcanic sea mounts, explicit examples of Indonesia’s place along the Ring of Fire. One of these islands is uninhabited by people, and is home to tens of thousands of sea birds, (brown and red-footed boobies, and frigate birds), who will likely come out to encircle the boat in great numbers upon her approach. If the tide allows, go ashore and investigate, and surely have a snorkel. In the late afternoon proceed north to the fabled Spice Islands.

By dawn spot the Banda Archipelago Spice Islands, original home of nutmeg and the scene of much bloodshed between the colonial powers of Europe in the 15th and 16th centuries over control of the spice trade. Go ashore and visit Fort Revenge, built by the Dutch, before snorkeling on the local reef.

Later, head across to the main island group and the main town, and anchor in the beautiful enclosed anchorage under the imposing gaze of a nearly 2,000-foot-high volcano. If arriving before nightfall, go ashore and explore the town.

Today is a day of exploring the history and beauty of the Spice Islands with a visit to the main town of the Spice Islands and its fort overlooking the harbor. Wander through the streets and markets of this bustling town and meet the local people. After lunch on the boat, take a local boat over to the biggest of the islands to walk among the vast nutmeg plantations, visit another Dutch fort, talk with the locals and visit one of the last perkineers, the farmers who still run the larger plantations on the island who will tell about life on the islands.

Later in the afternoon, snorkel on a local reef and have a chance to see the rare and multi-hued Mandarin fish, which only comes out at dusk to mate. Dinner will be had ashore at a local restaurant that offers traditional and delicious local dishes.

This morning offers time for a final stroll around the town or a last snorkel before saying farewell to the Spice islands around lunchtime and heading north. Enjoy lunch on the way, passing another major seabird island, before settling in for a relaxing afternoon on board scouring the horizon for migrating whales.

Wake up just south of the final destination. Spend the last few hours enjoying the majesty of the ocean, and possibly see more whales along the way. As the ship drops anchor in the harbor, say farewell to the crew and tour leaders and be taken to the airport for onward journeys, ending a magical 12 days of exploration and adventure.